Posted: February 24, 2014
Whenever you shoot a project, I will always require you give me a “Contact Sheet” before you chose your final image. Below is a tutorial on how to make a contact sheet and print it out.
Also, if you’re curious, here is a video on how “contact sheets” are made in a darkroom, with traditional photographic film and paper. You’ll notice that the negatives (film) are in “contact” with the photographic paper, which is where we get the name “Contact Sheet”.
Posted: February 24, 2014
I found this blog post this morning on Twitter – There are some AMAZING images on here, and I really think you should take the time and check them out!
Posted: February 11, 2014
Posted: February 10, 2014
Once you have shot your assignment, you will need to download the images from your card to the computer. To do this, you will need to take the card out of the camera, and, if it is a SD card, place it into the SD card slot on the side of the iMac. If it is another kind of memory card, you will need to get a USB card reader from me, and then plug that into the back of the computer. Once you’re there, open Adobe Bridge and then go to “File > Get Photos from Camera”. This will open the download dialogue. From here, there will be several things to be mindful of:
- Make sure that you choose the folder where you want the images to be saved to. This folder must be placed on the “mediastudents” folder.
- Turn off subfolders!!!!!
- Make sure you set the renaming to “Shot date.” This will help prevent mistakes later one when you could save a file over top of one of your existing ones, and lose your work!
- If you need to save only certain photos off your memory card, click on “Advanced Dialogue” and you can then deselect the photographs you don’t want to save.
Below is a demo where I go over most of the procedures we talked about today in class. Remember one thing: If you’re in doubt, it’s best to ask for help! Especially when compared to the prospect of losing your work!
Posted: February 7, 2014
So we’re shooting our first project! It’s exciting, but also realize that you’re just starting out – so go slow, double-check all your settings, and don’t rush the shots.
Here’s a link to the assignment hand-out:
And here are some examples of this project to help you along:
Posted: September 12, 2013
The first two – and most important – controls we will learn about with the camera are the Shutter and the Aperture.
2 major camera controls:
- Shutter: The shutter controls the amount of time the light goes through the camera and exposes the imager.
- The shutter speed is usually measured in fractions of a second. An example would be 1/60. However, at 1 second, it is usually depicted on the camera with the number and two quotation marks, like this: 2″
- During the time the shutter is open, the mirror has to move out of the way for the light to hit the imager, so the frame will appear to turn black when the photographer is looking through the viewfinder.
- The shutter controls the amount of motion blur present in a photograph. If there are any moving objects in the photograph, they may appear blurry if the shutter speed is not fast enough. If the camera is in motion, or being hand-held, then the entire image may appear blurry if the shutter speed is not fast enough. For this reason Never shoot at less than 1/60 when hand-holding the camera.
- Aperture: The Aperture is a variable opening in the lens that effectively controls the volume of light that goes through the camera and strikes the imager
- The Aperture is measured in a fraction as well, but is written like this: f/2.8. Apertures are also called f-stops. The number actually comes from a measurement of the area of the lens that is covered by the aperture blades.
- The Aperture controls not only the volume of light coming through the lens, but it also affects something called “Depth-of-Field.” This is essentially the amount of distance in front of and behind the focus distance that objects appear in somewhat sharp and in focus. The smaller the aperture (higher number) the more will appear in focus. The wider the aperture, the less will appear in focus. Lens length and the distance to the subject also affect Depth-of-Field. A wider-angle lens has much better DOF (deep), and when you are closer to an object, like in MacroPhotography, your DOF gets very shallow (less in focus). There will be more on this soon…
Here is a slow-motion video of the shutter and the aperture doing their magic during a photograph:
Posted: September 10, 2013
I’ve been so busy I’m running a bit behind on the blog here – and I apologize. Here are the handouts that I gave you on the first day:
Please remember that if you do need to borrow a camera, you must have a camera loan letter signed by you and your parent/guardian. IF you do not have that form signed, then I cannot give you one of Penfield’s cameras. Also remember, that sheet is a contract between you and the district that basically states that any damages that happen to the camer while it is in your care are your responsibility. So do not lend the camera to your friends, little brother, uncle, grandfather, etc. Do not leave the camera unattended, either. You will be responsible for all losses, and that can cost upward of around $650 to replace the camera, UV filter and the bag.
Posted: August 29, 2012
Welcome to the Digital Photography Class blog. This blog will be where I will be posting handout, assignment information, as well as recordings of any demonstrations that I do in class. It will be a very important resource for you during the class, and you will want to visit regularly.
On the right, you will see a link that says “Subscribe to This Blog.” I want you to enter your email address so that the blog will automatically send you a notification whenever something important is posted. Don’t worry too much – it won’t be emailing you every day. :)
Once you enter your email address on that page, then go to your email and find an email from my website (it may be in your junk mail folder), and in that email there will be a link. Click on that link to confirm the subscription. This is basically just verifying that you are a real person, not a spam program.